General Driver Rules and Expectations
1. ALL RULES MUST BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN
2. HAVE TO BE 16 YEARS OLD TO DRIVE AND RIDE. ANYONE UNDER THE AGE OF 18 HAS TO HAVE PARENT CONSENT.
3. Drivers must wear seat belt, helmet, fire jacket, long pants while participating.
4. ALL drivers must attend drivers meeting.
5. During event you are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit or will be disqualified
6. You MUST run a roof sign.
7. Drovers are not allowed to drink alcohol before they participate. If found with alcohol in system you will not run, no exceptions. ZERO TOLERANCE RULE!!!
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY SO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T!
NO PAINTING OR UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO BUFFING OR GRINDING FRAMES OR BODIES EXCEPT
WHERE WELDING IS SPECIFICIALLY ALLOWED IN THESE RULES. NO PAINTING IN THE INSIDE OF THE BODY OR
CAR. IF THIS IS DONE THE CAR WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
1. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions;
NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4, ambulance,
hearses, trucks, limousines, frames or full cars etc…
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is specifically stated in these rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard and properly secured/covered.
6. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the hoist. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame, must keep on one side only. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less- ** No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the first 14 inches of the frame. No brackets inside the frame at all!!
Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use 1- 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it.
Manufactured bumpers are allowed. Homemade front bumpers are permitted. If you choose to manufacture a homemade
bumper, it must be no larger than a factory bumper. If using a factory bumper it may be loaded or stuffed full are allowed and only bumpers that came stock on cars may be used. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around.
Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid we do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion, except on a 71-76 GM Wagon Rear bumper it may be welded to the body if still in factory location. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location.
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front
of the radiator.
The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
Rear Bumper may be mounted in the same manner as the front bumper.
Manufactured bumpers are allowed.
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches from the back of the bumper to the front of the
No rewelding of any factory seams is allowed. No cutting frame to tilt Cold Bending is allowed; you may cold bend the rails under the doors, however your cross members or down bars cannot support the bend.
Rust Repair – Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
Frame Shaping – NO frame shaping is allowed. Except for rear arches
Pinion on 03 and newer fords you must use factory aluminum cradle
You may swap A arms and spindles with factory to cars allowed to run You cannot tilt a 03 and newer ford only cold bending
Tie Rods and Ball Joints - Aftermarket or braced tie rods are allowed .
A-Arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 1/2” bolt but may not be reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick strap per a arm. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
Steering box – hydro steer is allowed. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
03 and newer are allowed aftermarket steering rack
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running.
Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles
Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
Leaf springs must be from a stock car allowed in this class, no added leafs. No rearranging the stacks.
You may add 2 homemade clamps per side 2x4x1/4” thick. No shorting of the leaf pack. You must have a working shackle. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted.
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount.
You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. No all thread shocks.
-Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8 lug rear end.
- You can tilt rear end if you wish.
-Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
- Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 ½” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing. Axle saves are ok
-Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid Setups.
-Watts-Conversion are allowed
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Inner bead locks only.
Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
-Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed.
-Mid Plates are NOT allowed.
-Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing, attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
-NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley protector if the sway bar is removed.
-Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” around header ONLY and can only attach to intake bolts
-You may run an aftermarket bell housing but no other modifications may be to transmission. You are allowed 1 loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with one link welded per side or bolt it down with 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft cone. No transmission protectors or aftermarket tail shaft housing.
Transmission Cross Member:
-You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission. This can be out of another car.
- You may use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours
-Tranny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6”
long angle iron to set cross member on.
-The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in.
Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT. If you have to restub your frame do so
under the front doors but do not support the splice with cross member.
-No #9 wire allowed in the window openings
-You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
For mounting radiators you may use (4)- ½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. NO radiator guards allowed
Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts and can only be 6-inches long, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 4x4x ¼” washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame with up to a 2x3x ¼” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may weld it to the body or the frame mount not both. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location. Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
Hood and Front Clip:
-Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 8 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 8 bolts.
You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4”
-Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
-You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 5 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
Windshield Bar and Firewall:
Firewall- DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!! Window Bar- For safety, all calls must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the firewall.
-You may weld your doors solid with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together, but you are not allowed to add any material. If you chose not to weld, they must be tied shut in six locations using ½” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points.
-You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
All cage material must be no larger than 8” od, unless specified for specific rule smaller. It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace you dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame must be straight up and down or the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the
inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Side bars including roll over may be a max length of 66 inches long. Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first.
Gas Tank Protector - You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must be a full 1 inch away from rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed Do not remove speaker deck The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area.
Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers and Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body
-You may weld your trunk lid shut in 6 spots using up to 3” 5”x1/8” strap on the factory seam or 6 inches on 6 inches off not both
-You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.
-(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, If it passes through a body mount
hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.
-GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be followed.
You are allowed 4 plates on fresh cars 4 more on preran cars must be on bends
Plate size can be 6X6X1/8 no 1/4 plates . Welds on plates must be at least 1 inch apart. If you are over on the allowed plates you will completely remove any extra plates and welds
If anything is found inside of the frame that is not allowed you will not be inspected and will not run that night and no refunds.
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CANT. JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL!!!
Cars may be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. Only J and B Officials will be allowed to inspect the cars everyone will stay back until the cars are deemed to be legal. $250 Protest Fee: You must be a driver in the main event to protest another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature to protest. If car is found to be illegal it will be disqualified.