General Rules & Expectations:
1. ALL RULES MUST BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN
2.All drivers and riders have to be 16 years old.
2. Drivers & Riders must wear seat belt, helmet, fire suit jacket, and long pants while participating.
3. ALL Drivers & Riders must attend the drivers meeting.
4. During event you are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit or will be disqualified.
5. You MUST run a roof sign.
6. Drivers & Riders are not allowed to drink alcohol before they participate. If found with alcohol in system you will not run, no exceptions. ZERO TOLERANCE RULE!!!
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU SPECIFICALLY CAN DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T!
NO PAINTING OR UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO BUFFING OR GRINDING FRAMES OR BODIES EXCEPT WHERE WELDING IS SPECIFICALLY ALLOWED IN THESE RULES. NO PAINTING IN THE INSIDE OF THE BODY OR CAR. IF THIS IS DONE THE CAR WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
1. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions: NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc...
2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is specifically stated in these rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard and properly secured/covered.
6. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the hoist. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
8. No fresh sedagons
9.If the frame is painted in any area your car WILL NOT be inspected and asked to go clean off with break clean only.
Repair Plate Rules:
8 total 6x6x1/8” plates
Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max. They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all. Must be welded on the frame rail only.
If you are over on plates you will remove completely
Bumpers Brackets - No more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets may be from any car that is legal to run in your class and on only one side of the frame. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods.
First Way– factory bumper bracket that is legal to a car in your class may not extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only), on one side of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1⁄2” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. All brackets must touch the bumper and cannot be cut apart to lengthened. No part of the bumper bracket may extend back further than 14” from the front edge of the frame rail
Second way - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down either a side, or the top, or bottom of the frame choose only one cannot wrap a corner with it and cannot be any longer 14”. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only 4” wide max. Do not bend plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Plate may be welded on either side of the frame or the top or bottom, your choice. Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT.
Stock Bumper - You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper all material must be
inside the factory front and rear bumper skins with no alterations. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed.
Manufactured Bumper - If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limits. The bumper may be built up to have a 15” point from the farthest point from the back side of the bumper to the point, however the point itself may be no more than a factory Chrysler pointy itself and spanning over a 36” span across the bumper. They may be 8” tall.
Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame whichever is lower. Bumpers must be in stock location and must be mounted in the same location the factory mounted the bumper. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails.
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
Rear Bumper Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 14” on the frame. The rear bumper bracket only, may also be on three sides of the frame on the back 4”. Wagons do not weld the bumpers to the body or move the bumper to the back frame rails.
Frame Shortening and Tilting:
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches minimum from the front a arm mount hole to the front edge of the frame and frame must be cut square. *80s and newer cars are allowed to cold bend in one location in the side rails only or cut factory seems apart to bend their cars down as long as no more than the 12” of weld (referred to in next rule) is used to. Do not abuse this rule or you will cut. Your frame must stay in factory shape when tilting.
You can weld top and bottom factory seams from the most forward part of the upper a-arm. You are allowed a total of 12” of weld behind the a-arms and the weld must be marked with fluorescent green paint. If you extend past the 12” you will cut daylight out of the frame seam to get it back to 12”. If any welds are ground down to hide you will remove that frame section piece.
All welds on the car should not be any wider or taller than 1⁄2” max.
Rust Repair – Frame - If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT. NO RESTUBBING OF ANY FRAMES, NO EXCEPTIONS. IF YOU HAVE A BENT FRAME, FIND A NEW ONE. YOU CAN NOT RESTUB IT.
Frame Shaping – NO frame shaping is allowed.
You may not relocate any brackets on the frame. This mainly pertains to 1972 and older Cadillacs relocating torsion bar brackets to cut frame shorter, all brackets on all cars must stay stock with no alterations.
Tie Rods and Ball Joints – Aftermarket tie rod tubes are allowed (no “Big Chiefs”) with stock size tie rod. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Only stock size car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends. If using a weld in ring for ball joint it can not be any bigger than 2 1/2” tall by 3” in diameter, do not weld to the frame only the a-arm
A-Arms - A-arms may be welded but may not be reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick strap per a arm, these straps are the only way your a-arms can be welded down. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. All a-arms must bolt through the factory holes like they came factory on that car. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement.
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running.
Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles
Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications. Must have two separate nuts for the upper and lower ball joint.
Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 2” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 3⁄4” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 2” stagger. You can clamp springs, 4 homemade clamps per leaf pack. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. Eyelets must be in factory location of the car you are running. 2” positive arch one direction from center of eyelet to eyelet. Springs have to be factory length to the car you’re running. No short sprung or longer springs. If you do one or the other you’ll have to change them out. The front and rear bracket has to be the factory bracket. You must have a working shackle throughout the event. Call if you question it. No leaf conversions on a factory coil spring car.
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), do not put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount.
You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. This is a standard chain link
Or you may use 2- 1” all thread going from your rear end through the package tray to hold your rear end in. You are allowed a 4x4 washer on top of package tray. This may not go through the body.
Use all-thread or chain not both!!
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS
They must bolt to package tray with 4 – 1⁄2” diam. and 1 -3⁄4” Bolt. No welding of the upper brackets to package tray. The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail with a mounting plate of no bigger than 8” square. The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford. Lower frame brackets may be 1⁄4” X 6” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located. All factory brackets must be removed from frame. No gussets may be used on these lower brackets. If you do a conversion you must do a full conversion of the upper and lower control arm mounts. You either get the factory set up or the conversion not both.
You may use loaded factory trailing arms or you can manufacture homemade trailing arms out of 2”x3” square tubing, both styles must pivot on both ends and have rubber bushings. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. The upper control arms maybe lengthen or shorted but the lowers must be factory length.
Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8 lug rear end. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 1⁄2” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing.
No changing out rear package trays on frame. - You must use the factory brackets that came with the car you are running unless Watts Link than see the Watts Link rules. No relocating brackets on the frame. The rear end must all stay 1 inch from the frame, including package tray.
Tires no bigger than 16 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled tires are not allowed at the arena events. Doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead.
Bead locks are allowed. They must not go past the rubber on the inside of the tire and the outside must remain inside the factory lip of the rim.
Solid tires are allowed
Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location. Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed. Mid Plates are NOT allowed. Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down.
NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley protector if the sway bar is removed. You may run the front plate for the engine cradle but can not extend back at all. This is to try and save motor mounts do not abuse this rule. Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 1⁄4” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything. No other protectors allowed on motor or in motor area. You are also allowed a 6”x6” mounting pad for your motor, this must be attached to the engine cradle only and not come in contact with the side rails at all.
In addition, you may weld two straight bars (one per side) extending back off the back side of your lower cradle and connecting them to the steel bell or your adapter plate between the steel bell and the block. These bars must a max of 2x2 square tubing. This is strictly to help not break blocks. If we have felt, you have gone extreme and are using them to help strengthen the car you will cut. No repair plates may attach to these bars.
Transmission Brace and Skid Plate:
You may run multiple bars down or one solid plate that conforms to the transmission. If these bars or plate catch the sheet metal excessively you will be required to cut reliefs into the transmission tunnel. Your trans brace can only be 12” were it meets the transmission cross member, measured from the center of the tail shaft 6” each direction. Trans brace may be no more than 2” off the transmission housing. You are allowed to build a 90-degree angle where it meets the transmission cross member and it may be tied down with 6 inches of weld.
Transmission Cross Member:
You may use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock location on the transmission. It must be straight from rail to rail.
NO HOMEMADE TRANNY CROSS MEMBERS one piece of tubing
2x2x1/4”tubing is the only crossmember you are allowed, no stock crossmembers No stock crossmember only 2”x2”x1/4” tubing
Tranny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to reinforce the crossmember, must be welded to the frame and crossmember. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. The transmission crossmember and supporting angle iron cannot touch the frame extensions on the Cadillac.
Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out, weld 1” beyond rust. You can not overlap factory body seams. Factory body seams must be untouched.
You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops). You can weld 5/8” washer for 9 wire to run through on body. Must go from body to body or body to frame. Can not connect to cage or driveline components but may bank off of them freely.
You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
For mounting radiators you may use (4)- 1⁄2” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. NO radiator guards allowed. Only factory condenser in front of radiator. Must only be bolted to body with 4- 3/8” bolts.
Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1/2” bolts and can only be 8-inches long, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 4x4x 1⁄4” washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame with up to a 2x3x 1⁄4” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a 3⁄4 space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may weld it to the body or the frame mount not both. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 2” square material and must stop on the bottom of the core support and top of the frame. The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location. Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
Hood & Front Clip:
Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on (this includes your front core support all thread and hood hinges); you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the radiator support mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars.
You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round. Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers total to bolt back to the core support of fender.
Windshield Bar & Firewall:
Firewall- DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides cutting out for distributor.
Window Bar- For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the firewall.
You may weld your doors solid with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the exterior door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together, but you are not allowed to add any material. If you chose not to weld, they must be tied shut in six locations using 1⁄2” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points. You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for a specific rule. It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which no sheet metal cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace you dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars per side from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. Side bars including roll over may be a max length 62 inches long. Side bars may be any dimension but must remain off the floor everywhere 4 in, they must remain 6 inches away from firewall and rear sheet metal. This is for drivers’ safety, not to strengthen the car, if we feel you have pushed this, you will cut! All cage material and bars must be straight.
Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first.
Gas Tank Protector
You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection but must stay within the gas tank dimensions. It may be tight to rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Gas tanks will also follow the gas tank protector rules.
Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
You may weld your trunk lid shut 5” on 5” off along the factory seam with 3”x5” 1/8” material. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over do not weld any made seem that didn’t meet up factory. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean. You may dish the trunk but must have two 6”x6” inspection holes in the trunk lid for inspection.
No altering the speaker decks
(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, If welded to the frame it must come straight down from the trunk lid and can only be welded 4 inches vertically.
If it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.
GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be followed.
03 & Newer Rules:
1. Hydro steering is allowed 2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.
4. Struts, spindles and a arm may be switched to a direct bolt on. No cutting, welding, and fabbing to make it work. May add a strut spacer, lower spacer can not be bigger than 2 1⁄2” in diameter.
5. Engine Mounting, you may use a cradle like Grey Area or Budde cradle or you can fab your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain 1⁄2 inch off the side rail.
6. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above. 7. No frame seam welding.
8. Must follow all other rules as well.
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CANT. JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL!!!